| Got some degreeing done today and I can't stress enough of this important simple step for those with serious engine build. Thru numerous engine build, I have NEVER seen any 4 aftermarket camshafts that are close to the manufacturer spec. This is the result of headgasket thickness, block/head machining, cam gear tolerance or just camshaft itself. This procedure is of course for those with adjustable cam gears. If you have non-ajustable stock one, just hope that they are not too far off spec. Sometime thru compression test you might see one bank of cylinders is consistantly higher or lower than the other bank by a fix number, say 20psi. The camshaft centerline is mostly out of spec, by a lot. This might rob you some serious hp. Anyway, back to the topic, Setup for cam degreeing
 Find Top dead center
 Just not much room for the dial indicator
 This might looks a little tedious but once you get going, it's not bad. After setup the TDC and the indicator, all we need to do is to find the max lift of the camshaft via dial indicator. Get 2 reading from the dergree wheel (one is 0.050" before the max lift and the other is 0.050" after the max lift). In this particular Tomei solid lifter cam, initially the 2 number I got for right intake is 76 degree and 160 degree. Add these 2 number and divide by 2 = 118 degree (Tomei spec for intake centerline is 110 degree). So it's 8 degree off from crank, that means 4 degree off camshaft. So adjusting the camgear 4 degree
 After that, first degree number from the wheel = 68
 2nd number = 152
 Add these 2 number and divide by 2 I got 110 degree. DONE for this cam now. 3 more to go. Fun huh?
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Camshaft degreeing fun - 
